Tuesday, July 6, 2010

Eyeliner Basics for Asian Eyes/ How I Do MY Eyeliner

Hello~~~~~~~~

Sorry long time no post!!! Been busy ahhh  X___X
So today's post is gonna be super eyeliner basics... specifically for Asians with closed lid space, like me :D
So you can skip this post if you don't need this information.

But firstttt....

I'd like to talk about different types of eyelids. Because I found that none of my white/non-Asian friends understand what I'm talking about when was describing how there are outwardly-folded (外雙)/ inwardly-folded (內雙) eyes, monolids, even open-eye (開眼頭) surgery.

Here are some example pictures of non-Asians eyelids just so you guys can see the differences:
jessica-alba-stare_b
Jessica Alba

glg-girlicious-1727706-800-633
Natalie/Girlicious

anne-hathaway-makeup
Anne Hathaway

AngelinaJolie
Angelina Jolie

I feel like for non-Asians they're more like a crease, rather than an actually fold



Now onto Asian eyes :)
There are roughly four types of Asian eyelids (monolid not included in this picture)
SAM_3226
 My very crappy drawing XD

1.
Outwardly folded eye with open inner tear duct
3
2
I don't see this eye shape a lot for Asians (and may I specify East Asians) but I have met a few ppl who naturally have this kind of eye shape. 

There are eyelid surgeries available where the inner corner of the skin of the eyelid/skin right on top of the inner tear duct is removed to open up the eyes, known as open-eye surgery; 開眼頭).

2.
Outwardly-folded eye (外雙)
Representation: Ayumi Hamasaki!
em070822012
Where the inner corner of the fold doesn't really connect with the inner corner of the eye

3.
Inwardly-folded eye (內雙)
Representation: BoA!
8927_127382942771_28159122771_24953
Where the inner corner of the fold actually is connected to the inner corner of the eye


Hahaha yayy BoA represent!!! cuz... I have this eye shape too XD

Lastly would be monolid... which I'm not gonna talk about cuz most ppl know what it is. It's just the way Asian lids fold differently is very perplexing to a lot of ppl :P

To demonstrate my point better:

For eye shape #1 and 2... you can pretty much do whatever you want with your eyeliner, there's not many limitations thanks to the lid space there is. I'm gonna talk about today is how eye shape #3 should do their eyeliner, or my suggestion at least :) there is no rule and it really depends on your personal style/taste as well.


So first off, I always tight-line my upper lash line
SAM_3081

Second part, lining your upper liner, is the trickier part.
Because of the nature of this lid, the inner corner of the eye is closed up, leaving no lid space, so I'd advise you to start lining your eyes where your pupil is when you look straight at the mirror
eyeliner5
see how I don't start at the very inner corner?

And here's a comparison between you leaving in inner corner free (left) and gradually thickening the eyeliner out , versus if you fill in the inner corner with the eyeliner with same thickness from inner corner to outer corner (right).

upperliner
See how on the right, the eyeliner basically fills in your lid space and closes your eyes down? This should be avoided.


Wing out your eyes if you want (or you can save this step along with lining bottom lash line)


Now onto the bottom liner
Line only 2/3 way in, and start fading the gel liner as you work inward

Leaving the inner corner free makes your eyes appear bigger and brighter
Whereas lining the whole bottom line kind of closes your eye, because you're defining the boundaries of your eye area.
lowerliner2

lowerliner

The above is just my suggestion if you want to achieve bigger/brighter eyes :) But of course you can do whatever you like. It really depends on what kind of look you're trying to achieve. For me this is how I do my eyeliner on a daily basis.



Now, I'm gonna show how to do the same thing using a liquid eyeliner.

For the upper liner, follow the same procedure of lining
SAM_3105

Now onto the bottom liner, have a Q-tip ready.
Dip the tip on the Q-tip into black/brown eye shadow, then blow at it gently to remove the excess eye shadow so you won't have fall-outs
SAM_3107

Then roughly place your liquid liner
SAM_3106
(Sorry for the blurry pic cuz I had to do it fast haha)
And WHILE THE LIQUID EYELINER IS STILL WET, with DABBING motion, gently dab the eye shadow onto the liquid liner. I usually just dab at 3 points
SAM_3110

SAM_3109

SAM_3108
Like so (I took the pics after I finished dabbing lol here's just to show where to dab)

End result... tah-dah!
SAM_3111
Pretty natural eh?


SECOND OPTION with liquid liner

You can also use a wet Q-tip and smudge out the liquid liner while it's still wet, it will give you the same effect. However I found this method gives less consistent results because it really depends on the formular of the liquid liner; For examples, this method works on Revlon, Maybelline and Tokidoki liquid liner, but NOT on loreal. I found if I use this method with loreal liquid liner it'd just wipe the liner away.

So that's all... very very basic stuff. But I hope some of you might find it useful :)

Thanks for reading I know it's super long!

<3 Frances
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Okay I must have sucked at explaining the differences between eye shape #1 and 2 and my drawing must have sucked XD
Anyways a bloggie asked about what the difference is ^^~
So I found some better pictures to explain

Both #1 and #2 are outwardly-folded lids. The only difference is that #1 has also removed the eyelid on the inner corner.

SAM_3233
I got this off a eye surgery advertisement page. The circled part indicates the skin that is to be removed.
SAM_3231
So here are the two eye shapes I was talking about, #1 being the bottom eye, #2 being the top eye. You can clearly see the tear duct of the bottom eye because the part of the skin that covers it has been removed.

Other example of #1 eye:
SAM_3229

#2
SAM_3230
you can see the skin of the inner corner of her eye is still intact, unlike the model above.

***** I'm not saying these models have had surgeries done! I have no knowledge about that.
*****I DO NOT OWN ALL OF THE IMAGES

Hope that clears things up :) <3 Frances

29 comments:

  1. Loved this post! Great tips. I knew about half but learned a few new things as well.

    Also... I was wondering what the difference between #1 and #2 eye shape was? I must be blind because I can't seem to tell the difference... =[

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  2. Ok, this makes so much more sense now and no no, you're a great teacher. Haha, teacher Frances <3 But omg... that surgery looks so painful and I'd be fearful of eye infections seeing as the tear duct is just... exposed like that :s

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  3. Awesome! YOu are always so giving with info! And this was sooo interesting. I have an outwardly folded eyes.... that too it looks more single lid when i'm tired or sleepy...
    Love the liner tut too!!

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  4. Awesome! While reading this I had to whip out a mirror to see what kind of eye shape I had bc I have no clue. I never paid any attention. lol hahah I have the inward fold like you do. =]

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  5. I have eye #1, I am only 25% japanese. I believe your right about full asains not having this shape of eye naturally. I have never seen anyone with my eye shape before. thanks for the post. awesome to see how someone else used their eye make up!

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  6. Hey! I have eye #1 and I'm full asian. So does my mom. :) Just saying - it's interesting though, never thought of it before. I had to double check in the mirror just to see, haha.

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  7. @ Anonymous: lol hey that's really cool! I've only met one other Asian with #1 eye shape since I made this post... haha maybe I should re-edit the post... it's too general :P hehe tks for sharing ^__^

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  8. oh my gosh I just want to say thank you so much for this tutorial ! I also have awkwardly inner folding eyelids and have been at a loss for my eyeliner always "disappears" ...and always have been. ; w ; thank you so much for your tip you really helped out so so much.

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  9. glad you find it helpful ^_^ hmm also eyeliner disappearing might be because of the products you use as well... some eyeliner's formula just aren't staying. So just make sure you find a good one that works for you ^_^

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  10. I love your blog, very insightful.... but I have a question... I am half Korean & half Caucasian.... so have the no-show tear duct, and apply the eyeliner the same way as you instructed... the issue I have is the OUTside corner... Everytime I apply, and follow my lash line, it makes my eyes look droopy... then, if I "wing" it out, I end up with a 5 mm thick (exaggeration) line.... how do I get an "uplifting" look with the corner without using a TON of eyeliner??

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  11. Hey Jessi!
    Ummm it's a bit hard for me to understand exactly what your problem is without actually seeing it lol! But if I'm understanding it right.... did you try flicking your eyeliner upward before you reach past the end of your eye? so it doesn't curve down too much with your eye shape (hence avoiding the droopy look). Try flicking it up where your eyelashes end (as opposed to lining your upper lash line all the way past your lashes, which is what I normally do). Does that make any sense??? O_o

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  12. My eye actually looks more like the "post-surgery" eye (with the tear duct clearly showing) since I am half white and half Japanese. But I think it has an inner fold, kinda like BOA's eyes. I'm just glad that you have tutorials like this, I might try the wingtip look now. :-)

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  13. I also want to say thank you for this blog - I am Native American and have the #3 eye for sure. I have always had problems with trying to make my eyes look more "awake" and open but using your tips will help!! Thank you so much!!

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  14. Few Asians do have outwardly folded eye with open inner tear duct, my friend has it and she never had surgery. Please don't make any assumptions that are inaccurate!

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  15. lol you're right this post is so outdated! I've met a few Asians with that eye shape since writing this post, I'll most definitely make the correction. Thanks ;)

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  16. Thank you so much for posting this. There are a lot of Asian eyeliner and make up tutorials and images and such out there, but few of them appear to actually be written by FOR people who have these different eye shapes (they essentially tell you to put on eyeliner and then end it there). Or they are models and no longer play by the same rules as the rest of us (aside from having people to put the make up on them).

    I have, according to your categories, type 1 eyes and it's been a struggle to figure out what to do differently from common caucasian make up techniques (like putting eyeliner on both the top and bottom of the eyelid, or putting eye shadow on the eyelid and then have it disappear). ^_^

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    Replies
    1. Thanks for appreciating it Mimi ^_^ it's really a matter of preference, I know some ppl are perfectly happy with just applying eyeliner all over regardless of what eye shape they have XD I hope it works out for you. Thanks for taking time commenting <3

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  17. the skin covering tear duct is called mongolian fold :)

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  18. I have eye#2.. except the gorgeous lashes I guess -_- (*stabs myself*)

    Great post though ♡ My sister found it very helpful :) :)

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    Replies
    1. lol ah no worries, a great mascara will do wonders XD thanks for appreciating it and taking the time to comment <3

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  19. Hi, my eyes are like the pre-surgery photo. Monolid with abit of skin folded into the eyes. How should I apply eyeliner and eyeshadow?

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    1. Hi Cyn,

      I'm really not the best to comment on these types of questions since I don't have that particular eye shape, but my monolid friends like to apply really thick eyeliner/black eye shadow, like you should see a thin line once you look straight. Your eyeliner will look a bit much while you're applying but it's okay since it will be folded in once you look straight and only the upper part of the eyeliner will be visible. Does that make any sense? lol >.< sorry for the late reply! I've been really busy ;(

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    2. Thanks, got it! I've been applying really thick eyeliner too, just that it looks a bit scary if I close my eye. That's why wondering any other way to do it.

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    3. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful :( have you tried layering dark brown eye shadow over it? and smudging the edges out a little bit?? that might help make the eyeliner less stark and more soft?

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    4. Thanks Frances. That's a good suggestion. :)

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    5. ^_^ hope it works out for you!

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  20. I have eye #1 and I'm full Chinese. My parents and all my siblings have this type too (and basically all of my extended family). And there was always a mix of eye #1 and #3 and the monolid for the east asians at my schools. I didn't know eye #1 was uncommon :o. I haven't actually met many people with eye #2. (also, Ayumi Hamasaki had surgery on her eyes - I think she might've had #3 before)

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    Replies
    1. Hi Emily~ hahaha may I say I envy you XD that's interesting! cuz I mean I see #1 for a lot of viet/filipino... but I don't see it very often on chinese/taiwanese/japanese/korean. maybe it's just the ppl around me lol!!

      I didn't look into if Ayumi had surgery before... that's cool! thanks for the info :D I've always kind of wondered lol!!

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